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ocean waves


ocean wave
Undulations of the ocean surface, generally the result of the action of wind on the water surface. At sea, there is no overall translational movement of the water particles: they move up and forward with the crest, down and backward with the trough with the trough, describing a vertical circle. Near the shore, friction with the bottom causes increased wave height, and the wave breaks against the land. Waves thus cause much coastal erosion.


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